Solo Expedition

If there is one thing I am certain about in my life, it is how much I love my husband. But after spending six months together nearly 24/7, we both agreed some time apart might do us some good. So, two days after we completed our kayak trip in Abel Tasman National Park, I headed off for my first ever solo backpacking trip on the Heaphy Track, one of New Zealand’s nine Great Walks.

I had never even heard of the Heaphy Track before we arrived in New Zealand. Yet, it was just a few dozen kilometers from where we had been staying in Golden Bay. And at 78.4 kilometers long, within the 452,000-hectare Kahurangi National Park (one of New Zealand’s largest), it sounded like the perfect trip.

Although most people who hike the Great Walks take advantage of the huts along the way to avoid carrying a tent and stove, I booked into three campsites along the route, staying in a hut only where camping was unavailable. That meant donning one of the heaviest packs I’ve ever carried, as the tent we procured in Chile weighs in at a whopping 3.5 kilograms (~8 pounds), not to mention all my other gear and food. We estimated my starting weight at about 18 kilograms (~40 pounds).

And I was definitely feeling that weight as I started out from the Brown Hut towards Perry Saddle on Day 1. But my thoughts were quickly diverted to the beauty of the scenery around me as I climbed steadily up, up, up, surrounded by lush, bush-covered mountains and clear streams shrouded in thick vegetation.

At times I felt a bit like Snow White as songbirds flitted about, descending from high perches to follow me along the trail. Often they would perch just a few feet off the trail, seemingly quite curious about this human in their midst. The South Island robins were notably unafraid, a few even coming down to land on my backpack as I took a needed rest on a bench or next to a stream.

Unlike the dramatic mountain scenery of its well-known South Island cousins (like the Milford, Kepler and Routeburn tracks), the beauty of the Heaphy Track is more understated. It is found in the diversity of ecosystems and constantly changing colors and textures.

You hike through the verdant bush of Middle Earth one day…

…gaze across the expanse of the low slung gold and red tussock downs the next…

https://www.flickr.com/photos/alexanderin/23818945401/in/datetaken/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/alexanderin/23901396145/in/datetaken/

…search for hidden limestone caves beneath your feet…

…meander through sub-tropical forests with towering Rata trees and Nikau palms with springs emanating from massive limestone formations…

…finally arriving at the wild and rocky West Coast, blue and white frothy waves crashing on every shore.

Along the way, I met some incredibly kind people who offered good conversation and chocolate. I also had a lot of time to reflect on the trip thus far and some lessons learned along the way, as well as my relationship with Alex and how it has evolved over 14+ years together.

And I learned a few things about myself as well. Most importantly, I learned that I am mentally and physically stronger than I give myself credit for. And ultimately, I was quite proud of accomplishing the journey alone. Turns out, I’m pretty good company.